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Sustainability. 2022 Aug 30;14(17):10821. doi: 10.3390/su141710821 Q23.32024

Extending the Lifetime of Clothing through Repair and Repurpose: An Investigation of Barriers and Enablers in UK Citizens

延长服装寿命的修补和再利用:英国公民面临的障碍与推动因素调查研究 翻译改进

Lisa Zhang  1, Jo Hale  1

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  • 1 UCL Centre for Behaviour Change, University College London, London WC1E 7HB, UK.
  • DOI: 10.3390/su141710821 PMID: 39440045

    摘要 中英对照阅读

    Repairing and repurposing clothes can extend their lifetime, helping reduce the environmental impacts of the fashion industry. We aimed to investigate influences on clothing repair and repurpose using the Theoretical Domains Framework. A survey was conducted with a representative sample of 300 UK citizens. The frequency of, and influences on, clothing repair and repurpose behaviour were measured with self-report scales and a free-text item. Quantitative (logistic regression) and qualitative (thematic) analyses were used to identify barriers and enablers of behaviour. Findings showed that participants typically engaged in the behaviour every six months. The main barriers concerned a lack of skills, poor product design, unaffordability of repair services, and incongruence with identity. Key enablers concerned the ability to focus during DIY tasks, dynamic social norms, beliefs about benefits of repairing, emotional attachment to clothing, and having routines and habits of repairing. This study is the first to apply the Behaviour Change Wheel to identify intervention types and behaviour change techniques that can modify these influences, such as training workshops and the provision of free repair and repurpose services. Policy options were suggested to support implementation, such as extended producer responsibility. Awareness and skill-building campaigns, while important, are not enough to support behaviour change; structural and policy changes are needed.

    Keywords: behaviour change; clothing repair and repurpose; extended use; sustainable consumption; sustainable fashion; theoretical domains framework.

    Keywords:clothing lifetime; repair and repurpose; barriers and enablers; uk citizens

    修复和重新利用衣物可以延长它们的使用寿命,有助于减少时尚行业对环境的影响。我们旨在使用理论领域框架(Theoretical Domains Framework)来调查影响服装维修和再利用的因素。一项针对300名英国公民代表性样本进行的调查显示了维修和再利用行为的发生频率及其影响因素。通过自我报告量表和开放式文本项目测量这些行为发生频率和影响因素,并采用定量(逻辑回归分析)和定性(主题分析)方法来识别行为障碍与促进因素。研究发现,参与者通常每六个月参与一次此类行为。主要的障碍包括缺乏技能、产品设计不佳、维修服务价格过高以及不符合个人身份认同的问题。关键的促进因素则涉及在DIY任务中集中注意力的能力、动态的社会规范、对修复益处的认知、对衣物的情感依附以及拥有定期进行修理的习惯和常规。本研究首次应用行为改变轮(Behaviour Change Wheel)来识别可以修改这些影响的因素类型和行为改变技术,例如培训研讨会和提供免费维修及再利用服务等措施。提出了支持实施的政策选项,如延长生产者责任制度。尽管提高意识和技能建设活动很重要,但它们不足以促进行为改变;需要进行结构性和政策性改革。

    关键词:服装寿命; 维修和重新利用; 障碍与促进因素; 英国公民

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    期刊名:Sustainability

    缩写:SUSTAINABILITY-BASEL

    ISSN:2071-1050

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    IF/分区:3.3/Q2

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